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The Art of Perming
Perming does have a certain amount of art to it. Of course it is best done by professionals in a salon who have been trained to take all variables into consideration. However, if you are going embark on trying it yourself here are a few simple tips/rules. 1) Determine hair's condition. You must factor in things like whether the hair is tinted, higlighted, damaged, or very porous. Perming hair with more than 40% bleach (heavy highlighting or full head bleach) is not recommended at home. This makes the hair far too fragile. A perming solution made for colored treated hair should be used when there is color on the hair and if the hair is damaged or very porous. Damaged and porous hair is very much structurally like chemical/color treated hair even when neither has been used before. Old perm counts as a prior chemical treatment, so be wary of those old permed ends! 2) Consider hair's texture. Is it course, medium or fine? Course hair can take more chemical processing than the finer versions. Fine hair offers more risk of frizz and breakage. Keeping in mind tip number 1, if the hair is fine and color treated or previously permed, do consider getting it professionally done. Even if hair is "virgin"/normal (no color treatments) then still be cautious when perming finer hair types. Choose a perm solution based on both the texture and the presence or non-presence of a prior chemical/color treatment. When in doubt, call the hotline on the box of the perm brand you are considering for advice on choosing a solution. 3) Determine the amount of curl or wave desired. This will determine both the processing solution and the rod size that must be used to create desired results. The idea is that the looser the curl/wave desired the bigger the rod size should be. Of course this is also determined by hair texture as well. Course hair will tend to take a tighter curl and hold it longer due to more stencil strength in the core of the hair. Finer hair tends to take okay but has a habit of losing curl faster due to less internal strength. The presence of natural curl should also be taken into consideration. The more natural curl/wave you have the tighter a perm will take and the longer it will hold so you should perhaps go up one rod size to larger rod. Same is true for course hair; you can usually use a bit bigger rod size than on fine hair. 4) Once you have determined the rod size and perm solution to use you must wrap the hair on the rods. Use end papers to ensure that the ends stay uncrimped during processing. If the hair is chemically/color treated you will want to use a conditioning pre-wrap on the hair, otherwise just wrap with water. Be sure that all of the hair ends are smooth inside the end papers and none are left out. This will cause a condition called "fish-hook ends" which makes the hair appear frizzy/damaged at the ends if care is not taken in the wrapping phase. As well do not over-stretch the hair or take too large an amount of hair into each end paper. This puts undue stress on the roots of the hair and can cause breakage at the scalp. The section of hair used should never be wider than the circumferance of the end of the perm rod.
5) Once wrapped apply solution evenly to all rods. Go over the rods twice with the solution to ensure proper coverage. Follow manafacturer's directions as to whether to place a bag over the head, timing and checking of the rods to ensure that the hair does not become over processed. 6) When you feel the perm is done you must rinse the solution off. This is as well a key point. You must rinse with as warm a water as you can stand for about 5 minutes. Leaving any solution in the hair leaves chemicals in the hair that causes further damage and smell after the perming process. Towel blot very throughly to remove as much moisture as you can using at least two different towels. Paper toweling after that is also recommended. 7) Apply the neutralizer carefully using the twice over method that you used with the solution. Time this according to manafacturer's directions. Do not leave on longer than suggested. This the step which "locks" in your curl. Improper neutralization will result in a perm that does not hold. After the time suggested has expired begin to rinse ON THE ROD for 3 mintues. Then you may remove the rods and rinse again for about two more mintues. The perm is now finsihed and ready for styling. 8) Do not shampoo/condition the hair for a minimum of 24 hours after a perm. The perm is still oxidizing (inner structures still bonding) and it can be weakened by shampooing or conditioning too early.
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Contributor's Note
Not the entire story of successful perming but the real baics of how to do perming. When in doubt, call a perm company for further instruction.
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